3: Pliny The Elder
Beer #3
Pliny The Elder, Russian River Brewing Company, 8.0%
It looks rustic, perfectly amber-hued, like the rind of a dirty blood orange. The pour’s finish gathers a short, thick head at the top of the glass and settles very slowly, thickly. If this is poured well, the lacing on the head gathers an off-white, thread-like froth, similar to frothed milk. The body color is beautiful. Liquid gold.
This is one of the best noses in American beer. Automatic slap of pine and grass, like you’re working on a Christmas tree farm. Behind the pine is a light malt syrup aroma, like butterscotch and Whoppers candy blended together. But the GEM of all the aromatic notes is citrus: grapefruit, tangerine, a little orange oil or extract-like sharpness. It’s not crazytown citrus to the point of coastal/tropical though, because the malt background is huge itself. Great balance.
Jesu Cristo. That citrus in the aroma comes to your mouth in a conflation of nearly every hop characteristic known in one smooth run up the line. Most notably though, I get the fruitier flavored hops, which for me are kings in the hop spectrum. Hop madness aside, it’s so unbelievably balanced from the tremendous amount of malt. He’s sharp but light at the same time. It’s mouth-blastingly hoppy, but it scales you back just as quickly as it puckers you up. And though 8% abv nowadays is on lighter end for a Double IPA, every ingredient is just so harmonious that the alcohol burst is relegated to a slight flicker. This taste is an extremely refined, restrained piece of hop art.
The mouthfeel is smooth, so smooth. From the initial sip to the bottom of the glass, it coats the mouth full-bodily. Elder doesn’t thin-out or settle into something watery and stagnant as it warms. It's a consistently carbonated, rich, and full-bodied drink all the way. Not one ounce is a missed opportunity to light you up.
This is also the best food beer I’ve come across. It’s utterly perfect for Indian foods, mild or spicy; Thai; sushi; grilled steak fish; pizza; rich and spicy bbq; cheeses both mild and funky; and the gamiest of meats. It’s richness cuts through fats and spice so well, it’s a pairing dream.
California, Colorado, Oregon, Washington, and the greater Philadelphia area are the only markets that receive this one, so if you are
anywhere near its location, get there. I’ve had the pleasure of having this in the suburbs of Philly, in the city itself, and numerously at
its source. It’s marvelous everywhere. Lucky me (sorry).
There are a few things in this world for which I would drop everything. Pliny The Elder is certainly at the top of that short list. It is everything that I love in a beer, in a beverage, in food, in artistry, and in philosophy. It is the Holy Grail. It is the originator of all that is special and majestic and possible in American brewing. I am a freak for it. I am insane, man.
It is the beginning and end to any and all desert island banter. I could drink this all day and year and hours on end until I can’t see. I love this beer so much. PtE’s been present during many fond memories with friends, and he’s been the center of motivation for the most epic beer experiences I’ve had. Craft beer, to me, is one word: Elder.
Pat Marino lives in New Jersey. He appreciates a heart that's a yolk, peanut butter and the promise of publicly-practiced, communal hygiene.